After two failed plans finally came the sunny Saturday and a great weekend. We managed to get on our (already planned trip) trip to Dolenjska. We were headed to the south-eastern hilly region along the river Krka and its affluent. The region is famous for its cviček, vineyards, poet Tone Pavček, accordionist Lojze Slak, Ribnica's hand-made products and sincere, hospitable people. It is a wonderful part of Slovenia, which we didn't know before and rarely visited. So, it was really the time that the three girls from Štajerska region went to Dolenjska region. On Saturday, we were discovering beautiful corners along the Krka River and found out how beautiful it is among the wine-growing hills, the green rivers, the picturesque places, the flowering plains and the mighty forests.
Kostanjevica na Krki or "Slovenian Venice"
Our first stop was Kostanjevica na Krki. We crossed the wooden bridge (one of the two bridges purposed for traffic) and entered the city. As soon as we entered the "centre of the city", the road splits. We followed the signs and stopped at Oražnova Street at the remains of the Kostanjevica castle, where there's now Lamut's art salon. Anita Pajtler kindly welcomed us and gave us a lot of information about what to see in Kostanjevica, and equipped us with a map, leaflets and helpful tips. We visited the exhibition of Helena Tahir V vrtincu (In the vortex). While we were visiting, there was also a workshop on graphics going on, which was led by the graphic artist Janko Orač. The participants created great graphics. We thanked everyone for inviting us to the workshop and went for a walk around Kostanjevica.
Kostanjevica na Krki is the oldest city in Dolenjska and in general one of the smallest, but very cute cities in Slovenia. It is also known as "Slovenian Venice". The old part of the city is located in the Krka river meander, and the city is accessible by two wooden bridges dedicated to traffic, and the third bridge is intended only for pedestrians. Two streets drive through the city: Oražnova Street and Ulica talcev. In the city there is a church, an excellent brewery Kitcher (which offers free beer tastings but requires reservation) and a restaurant. Low-row colourful houses welcome strollers. The town is small and cute, great for a walk and enjoying the sun under the trees overlooking the green Krka.
Božidar Jakac Gallery, cviček wine cellar and beautiful yard
Not far from Kostanjevica na Krki (1.5 km away) stands the Božidar Jakac Gallery, one of the largest Slovenian galleries, both in terms of space and number of exhibits and certainly one of the most beautiful. It is in the former premises of a 13th-century Cistercian monastery and is named after painter and graphic artist Božidar Jakac from Novo Mesto. It represents the top-notch works of Slovenian expressionists.
We went to the gallery. The entrance through the walls from the lawn in front of the building is really beautiful. A lime avenue leads towards the monastery courtyard. On the right there is a former mill, in which there is a museum shop, and the surrounding monastery is decorated with interesting wooden sculptures. They were created by artists at the International Sculpture Symposium Forma Viva. Today more than 100 statues are on display, all of which are made of oak wood.
Baroque entrance leading to the courtyard has frescoes above the stone portal. When we entered, we were fascinated by the size and spaciousness of all the buildings and the stunning arcade courtyard with a well. There are several buildings that are connected to each other. The gallery is located on several floors and wings. Bozidar Jakac, and brothers Kralj impressed us. The cviček wine cellar is also special. Holders of the HI card receive a 50% discount on the exhibition by choice.
Carthusian Monastery Pleterje
Amazed by Dolenjska and the things we have seen so far, we continued towards Pleterje. Pleterje is famous for the Monastery where the Carthusians live, the strictest monastic order in the Roman Catholic Church. The monastery was closed for visitors, but we visited the Gothic church from where we heard the prayers of the monks. Through the projection we learned about the life of the Carthusians, and we also tried their homemade liqueur. The Carthusians are known for their excellent brandy.
Outdoor museum Pleterje - an oasis of peace
The outdoor museum Pleterje, located in the immediate vicinity of the monastery, is quite opposite of the monastery. If there is strict silence and seriousness in the surroundings of the monastery, the outdoor museum is full of life and joy. Here you will find a real oasis of peace, clean air and unspoiled nature. It is an open-air museum showing people's architecture in Dolenjska. In the embrace of the beautiful forest there are wooden thatched houses, here we also find a barn, a pigpen, a room where they dried fruit, a wooden fountain, a hayrack, and chickens, cocks, ducks that freely walk in the meadow. They also have ponies, bunnies, goats, ferrets. In addition to animals, the only sound here is just the sound of a stream. Every once in a while you can also hear a car parking in the nearby parking lot. There is an herbal garden next to the house, from where the wonderful scent of mint comes from. Black kitchen and open fireplace remind us of life in the past and take us back centuries ago. Time really stops here. For one afternoon we have forgotten the modern technology, all the obligations and problems, and above all, the constant rush. There are other rules here: simplicity, kindness, tranquillity. A real balm for the soul.
Wonderful thermal spring Grič pri Klevevžu
On the way home, we went to Klevevž. Klevevž is known for its castle ruins and thermal springs. Here is the spring of the Toplica River, which has a year-round 24°C. Water is caught in a smaller stone pool and is suitable for swimming. We did not bathe, but we met a lot of curious visitors who, like me, came to explore this "hidden place". Some of them bravely dived in the hot water.