The reputation of the White Carniola region (Slovene: Bela Krajina) has changed in the past few years, namely from a faraway land at the very edge of the universal Slovenia, where reigns the mysterious spirit Green George into the setting of the Schengenfest that became the new home to the mythical Marijan. And with him, the noble Slovene tradition of cultural drinking moved there as well. Of course it is self-explanatory that fine wine was enjoyed there even before the age of the music festival, as it suits any respectable region of Slovenia, but there is a bigger question to be answered. What hides in the White Carniola other than Metliška črnina (the Metlika Black; a kind of dry red wine, based on the Lemberger grapes) and spirits from Slovene folklore.
The Metlika Chronicles
Metlika, one of two capitals of White Carniola, is a true treasure-trove of culture. Next to each other stand two museums, namely the Museum of White Carniola (Belokranjski muzej) in the Metlika castle, and the Firemen’s Museum. The Museum of White Carniola is a sanctuary of learning and in it we can trace the history of modern-day White Carniola all the way back to the Stone Age, when in the fifth century B. C. the first settlers made it their home. There we can familiarize ourselves with the complex branching of the Slovenian family tree, from the fact that some of the earliest permanent settlers there where the descendants of the Celts, after the Celtic kingdoms fell apart due to the arrival of the Germanic and Slavic peoples. A testament on the common cultural heritage of the latter is the fact that the adorably grammatically correct “da” of the White Carniola people and other peculiarities of their dialect, such as them interchanging Slovenian and Croatian verbs, are the consequences of them being descendants of Old Croats who settled there in the 13th century. A large portion of the museum is dedicated to the times of the former Yugoslavia, the noble experiment of uniting the southern Slavs. In light of all of this one truly realizes that the trifles with our southern neighbors are indeed pointless.
To the Warriors of St. Florian
It is a special joy walking through the Firemen’s Museum, especially for all of those who spent the afternoons of their youth at the Volunteer Fire Brigades. Between the lines of helmets, from which the oldest ones reach into the 19th century, and the historic fire trucks lies hidden a bigger message. On the walls we can read diplomas and commendations that attest to the brave acts of firemen, whether they service be done under the flag of Slovenia, the two Yugsolavias or the Austro-Hungarian Empire, regardless of the nationality or politics of conflicting countries. What carries weight to it are the acts of valor.
The City upon the City
White Carniola is a land full of surprises and as we drive along its vast fields, where one can hardly see any settlements, from Metlika to Črnomelj, there far beyond the cornfields, the vigilant can see the displayed Yugoslav aircraft, the old DC-3. During the time of the Second World War, it was used by American and British soldiers to carry the wounded from the front to the hospitals in Italy, they stocked the Partisans with munitions, guns and rations, necessary for the fight. Črnomelj itself is a beautiful city and there is something almost fairy-tale-like to its many bridges that tower one over the other. Due to them and the old city center, hiding many remnants of the Ancient world, Črnomelj is called, with a decent amount of poetic spirit that would become the Lord of the Rings, the City upon the City.
While there, you can sleep over in the Hostel Črnomelj that boasts itself in the very center of the city. Its architecture alone is exceptional and in the middle of the garden in front of it you can see a marble statue rising towards the sky. It is one of those establishments that can be hardly called a hostel, because sleeping in it is a true luxury.
Goblets of Intoxication
Vinica is one of the far-away paradises of Slovenia. There you can find an idyllic peace besides the river Kolpa and its cool waves, beyond which stretch the Croatian lands. On our side one can find many a proclivity and only a few of them is tied with Schengenfest. Vinica is the birthplace of one of the four Slovene writers who were active during the period of Modernism, Oton Župančič. In this picturesque village you can lift a goblet of sweet red wine to this master of the Slovene verse, or place a red carnation upon his monument, honoring his bravery in the Second World War.
White Carniola is a land that is full of surprises, whether it be the knowledge offered by its many museums or random discoveries of antique airplanes. These are lands that offered much more than merely the week of madness, when the south-east of Slovenia is taken over by the summer festivals. There you can enjoy the vast empty flatlands, extraordinary wine, the taste of which hides the sweetness of the southern sun, perhaps most importantly; there we can feel our unity with our southern neighbors.
