South Korea – Part 4

Almost at every step you are being offered a tour of the DMZ demilitarized belt between North and South Korea and before going there, it's worth comparing the offers and, of course, the prices. For those who would like to enter the North Korean territory at least for a moment (no entry from South Korea is possible, but we can travel there from China or Russia), I advise a tour which also includes the Joint Security Area. One of the barracks on the border is available alternately to South and North Korea, so you can enter the territory of both Koreas. Of course, you need a passport to enter the area that is under the special security regime. The cheapest and least stressful visit is by train, as you will pay about 15€ for a return ticket, but you should also count in the individual entrance fees and local transportation. Unfortunately, this method does not include a visit to the border point itself - Panmunjeom (Joint Security Area), where you can only travel to with any of the authorized travel agencies with prior registration. It will cost you between 50 and 100 Euros, including transportation from Seoul. However, I recommend that you visit the DMZ and decide whether you want to visit Panmunjeom, which is associated with slightly higher costs and prior planning at least a few days in advance. After visiting the DMZ, you will have plenty of time for any landmark in Seoul in the afternoon if you plan well.

SUWON is the next city, which is half an hour away by train from the main station, or an hour with a subway, which is slower and has more stops but is more than a half cheaper.

King Jengho, the king of the Joseon dynasty, can take the most credit for the prosperity of Suwon, as he wanted to move the Korean capital of Seoul at the end of the 18th century 50 kilometres south. During his lifetime, he managed to build a mighty wall around the city, which is also a part of UNESCO World Heritage. Hwaseong, as the wall or the fortress is named, is the first and most important reason for the visit to Suwon, because it offers beautiful views of the city and the Hwaseong - Haenggung palace. It is 5.7 kilometres long, and is an attraction itself with the individual entrances, passages and guardhouses.

The Hwaseong - Haenggung Palace, surrounded by the walls, is another landmark worth a visit, although a very small part of the palace is authentic. Most of the palace was destroyed during the Japanese occupation, but today it is exquisitely restored. It takes visitors to the late 18th and early 19th centuries for at least some time. Unfortunately, King Jengio died too soon for the capital to be moved to Suwon, and his successors immediately abandoned the idea.

Before we leave the centre of Suwon, let me mention the neighbourhoods or villages of Haenggung-Dong and Ji-Dong, where street artists are living and creating and where we find a series of original graffiti and other creations. If you have enough time and will for an extremely long walk or a short bus ride, you can visit the unique landmark “Mr.Toilette House" where you will get to know the history of toilets from prehistoric times to this day. In Asia people are paying special attention to comfort and heated toilet seats and the choice of ambient music in the bathroom are not unusual.

Near Suwon, there is also a huge Everland theme park where we can refresh ourselves in the hot summer months, meet real tigers and pandas, take a roller coaster ride with the largest slope in the world (amazing 77-degree angle) and much more. Especially those who will only visit Seoul and its surroundings, should visit the "Korean Folk Village" where you will get to know Korean traditions, domestic crafts and with a bit of luck catch the filming of a Korean historical drama. For all the others, in the next issue we will present a place that has almost blended with Seoul, but was, despite its many attractions, completely overshadowed by Seoul.